In Nicaragua, almost half the population sit below the poverty line, which is why Granada comes as a surprise. Its colonial-era riches stand strong in its architecture and a recent tourism boom has given rise to a high-end foodie culture and niche shops.
I wasn’t able to spend long enough in León. Nicaragua’s most northern city has long been respected as the country’s seat of intellectual and political challenge. A few days before I planned to cross the border, it started a new and important fight.
Waves draw people to this coastal town in southern Nicaragua. The remote beaches either side of San Juan Del Sur offer some of the best surf in the Americas. Although the town itself is also worth a day or two.