A clear morning atop Tokyo’s Metropolitan Government Building. My gaze follows a jagged sea of skyscrapers so far that they appear to drop beyond earth’s curve completely.
With a population of over 37 million, greater Tokyo is the third largest urban sprawl in the world. Is Japan only bright lights, office-chic and city-slickers?
While the scale of urbanity in some areas is hard to fathom, Japan’s reverence of the natural world is rooted in its ancient cultures. Philosophies that respect flora and fauna, viewing it as intrinsic to our peace and wellbeing, mean that gardens, green spaces and other natural environments like thermal springs are celebrated, not curtailed.
This appreciation of nature is also reflected in Shinto and Buddhism. They pay homage through mindful rituals and the sensitive construction of shrines and temples. Far from acting as stand-alone, imperious places of worship like the gothic cathedrals of Europe, these buildings blend into their natural environment. Their plain wooden or stone façades appearing as part of the wider habitat instead of fighting against it.
The country’s extreme vulnerability to natural disasters has, over centuries, also propelled concepts like ‘wabi sabi’. The acceptance of imperfection and the fleeting nature of life. Alongside ideas like ‘bosai’ – preparation and community spirit in the face of what may come next. More recently, environmental science has driven even greater protection in the form of sea barriers, considered re-wilding and seismic shutdown systems.
Tranquil city parks and private gardens are curated as an ode to Japan’s natural topography. Features like water, pebbles and moss represent larger versions of similar habitats found in the mountains surrounding cities. Placement of lanterns and bridges is meticulous, drawing the eye to more important areas and referencing ancient gods, stories and faiths.
That said the Japanese are also pragmatists. From the window seat of any train journey, large-scale production and unapologetic – sometimes even ugly – urbanisation bleeds into every bit of visible countryside. Even Mount Fuji’s view comes complete with a factory or two in front of it. So is there a wilder side of Japan to be found? And if so, where?
On Route: City Parks & Waterways
Endemic bird species like the Varied Tit, Brown-eared Bulbul, Pygmy Woodpecker and Warbling White-eye can be found in most city parks. As well as more recognisable variants like cormorants, mallards, wagtails and egrets around waterways and ponds. On visits to slightly more wooded areas like bamboo forests or out-of-town shrines, keep eyes to the ground for Dusky Thrushes, White-cheeked Starlings and rarities like the Daurian Redstart and Red-billed Leothrix – a very special little bird!
In Nara, deer roam the temples and can get quite frisky if you have crackers in your pocket. Feeding is sensibly monitored by locals but no touching and respect for the revered animals hopefully goes without saying.
A well-spent day strolling Kyoto’s wide, clean river!
Small Detours: Japanese Alps & Miyajima Island
During a few days in the cooler-climate mountains near Nagano I spotted the Japanese variant of the Eurasian Jay, Japanese Woodpecker, Willow Tits and of course the star of the show: Japanese Macaque monkeys bathing in the natural hot springs.
A spring day trip from Hiroshima to Miyajima Island produced all the regulars plus a fantastic encounter with a Japanese Striped Snake, swallows and yet more deer. Ospreys, Black Kites and sea birds are plentiful along the main bay.
Further Afield: Okinawa & Beyond
Popular with Japanese holiday makers for long weekends, Okinawa’s warm climate three hours flight south of Tokyo throws up a whole different host of animals. Including sea snakes, turtles and countless fish along its reefs south of the island’s capital. Very special endemic birds live here, as well as adrift migrants. Keep eyes peeled for the Ryukyu Robin, Orange Okinawa Woodpecker, various owls and a local celebrity: The Okinawa Rail. The island’s also brilliant for bug and butterfly spotting, with a small reserve in Naha also providing chances to see crabs and uniquely comical mud-skippers.
Despite Japan’s reputation as a master of its urban environments, I found nature at every turn. In fact, the moments I shared with its creatures became stand out memories of my trip. Simply because natural encounters are best when we least expect them. Short, sweet and in high contrast to skyscrapers as far as the eye can see.
Get in touch if you have any other wild tips for exploring Japan!
The Curious Traveller 