In Nicaragua, almost half the population sit below the poverty line, which is why Granada comes as a surprise. Its colonial-era riches stand strong in its architecture and a recent tourism boom has given rise to a high-end foodie culture and niche shops.
“Maybe we should go to Salama?”. I put the question to my travel buddy despite knowing it was a big ask. Salama was a two day trip off our planned route but that’s how extreme my quetzal obsession had become.
Since day one of my journey through Central America, hummingbirds have become an obsession. I can’t explain their allure. I only know that when I watch them hover I stand silent; hypnotised.
Caving in Guatemala is an unceremonious affair. You hike for a while, usually through jungle, and then simply slip in. It’s almost as if you have stumbled upon the ancient geological formation by accident. Ah, a massive cave system: what a surprise!
It’s easy to fall in love with Tikal as you watch a gradual dawn reveal its ancient history. Temples rise from the jungle canopy, perforating the horizon with a hint of what they hold below the trees.
Each morning in Cahuita, I sip a hot coffee on my little patio and watch in silence as multiple species of hummingbird, tanager and woodpecker go about their morning routine.